 It’s not called the “heartbreak grape” for nothing; Pinot Noir is picky, temperamental and thin skinned. Refusing to lay down roots just anywhere, Pinot’s fickle nature reads like something straight out of a Dr. Seuss book: I will not grow here, I will not grow there, I will not grow just anywhere!
And like rhythmic tongue twisters, when it comes to making pinot noir, practice and patience makes perfect. In New Zealand’s case, it is the efforts of forty plus years of patient viticulture and winemaking that is beginning to pay off and creating a whirl of buzz among wine buyers and consumers alike.
Although Pinot Noir was first planted around the Auckland area, it eventually migrated further south to cooler climes. Today pinot is largely planted in Wairarapa on the south eastern tip of the North Island and in Marlborough, Nelson, Canterbury and Central Otago on the South Island.
Regional expression, finesse and longevity are all part of the Pinot Noir Holy Grail and without exception New Zealand producers are on the continual quest to push boundaries, learn, refine and push boundaries again. Identifying sub-regions and specific vineyards that produce Pinot Noir with an amazing sense of place are integral to achieving realized, world class success.
 Villa Maria’s Chief Winemaker, Alastair Maling, MW, is undeterred in his quest and with a dedicated Pinot Noir winemaking team zeroes in on regional and single vineyard expressions. “Villa Maria is fortunate to source Pinot Noir from most sub-regions within Marlborough and has spent considerable time and effort to determine what vineyards will produce the greatest Pinot on a consistent basis. We developed a single vineyard range in 2002, which has allowed us to look at specific vineyards in the bottle and over time” says Maling. “We are seeing the better vineyard sites consistently produce more fragrant, intense, complex and age-able Pinots.” (Full story…)
This is a part of a series of articles written by me, for New Zealand Winegrowers. For the complete 2010 Q1 WinE-News, please visit: http://www.smartmailpro.co.nz/s.aspx?xr58=EA60E298F11845ECBD612804E9907632
 Doug Frost, MW, MS, traded in a couple weeks of summer this past July for a visit with old man winter, when he made his maiden voyage to New Zealand to speak at the NZ Winegrowers Exporter’s Forum. He also took the opportunity to tour the major winegrowing regions during his stay. Maintaining a jam packed schedule, Frost’s energy and enthusiasm was impressive as he managed to inspire a room full of producers while delivering some sobering realities about the current U.S. wine market.
Frost also offered a fresh dose of optimism in a recent conversation about his visit to New Zealand and his perspective of New Zealand wines in America:
Q. July was your first trip to New Zealand? Was it what you expected?
A. Yes, obviously. New Zealand has a great deal of beauty going for it. It’s a country with a great reputation in terms of scenery, lifestyle and the culinary scene. It delivered on all those levels - it would be nice to visit again.
Q. And as it relates to the wine industry?
A. The NZ wine industry is definitely in transition, but what I did find is that New Zealand has many more assets than the well-worn Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. I went there expecting to find other delicious white varieties like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling, and I found some. I think New Zealand could be seen as the benchmark leader for cool climate, New World wine production.
Q. What important point about NZ wine do you think the U.S. trade should take greater notice of and NZ wineries should continue to promote?
A. Location, Location, Location. In the absence of a well-articulated depiction of the differing flavors that occur in different places, U.S. buyers will decide that the only reason to choose one NZ wine over another is price. And that way lies Aussie Shiraz, or any other commodity you can name.
 Q. You specifically made the point at the Forum that New Zealand is not getting a broad enough share of the U.S. wine list and retailer shelf space. Where is the opportunity?
A. Pinot Noir is the great opportunity. The heart and soul of Pinot Noir is the transparency of regionality. New Zealand Pinot Noir has a price advantage over many other places. California Pinot Noir is successful in the U.S. though I have not always been a fan. But still, there are interesting New Zealand Pinots for 25 bucks and they are a bargain compared to pricier American Pinot Noir. (Full story…)
This article is part of a quarterly series written by me for New Zealand Winegrowers. For Q1 NZ WinE-News http://www.smartmailpro.co.nz/s.aspx?xr58=EA60E298F11845ECBD612804E9907632
With the U.S. economy on the road to recovery, data is being churned out at mach speed to help identify positive upticks and trends. As most in the wine business already know, certain wine segments took some pretty heavy hits; but when it came to New Zealand, the category kept its head above water, way above water.
 In August, Ben Russell, General Manager of Country Banking for Rabobank New Zealand, released the report, Romeo Bragato 2009 - Facing a New Reality. The report summarizes the “perfect storm” that lead up to the global wine glut, the new realities of the wine market place and its direct impact on the New Zealand wine industry in world markets.
Even though many countries had double digit decreases in wine exports to the U.S., New Zealand reported an impressive performance during one of the worst financial crises ever. With the year ending June 2009, NZ wine exports to the U.S. jumped a whopping 18% in volume and 38% in value; making it the second most profitable imported wine category behind France. Yes, there seems to be a silver lining in all those dark clouds.
To get a better read of the data’s trickle-down effect at street level, I met with Ken Mudford, the NZ Category Director for Sherry Lehmann in New York City. Mr. Mudford also happens to be a New Zealander who has resided in the U.S. for the past 24 years. Working in the wine industry nearly as long, Mudford has had a front row seat to one of New Zealand’s greatest performances - the rise of Sauvignon Blanc.
 So I had to ask. Has the NZ category fared as well for Sherry Lehmann as the Rabobank report indicates it should? According to Mudford, it certainly has. “If we factor out a brand we aggressively promoted for the past six months, we will do about 3,500 cases this year, which is about a 50% increase from 5 years ago. In the last 12 months, each month we are selling more NZ wine. New Zealand is now the largest category after France and the U.S. domestic market; it’s now ahead of Spain, Italy, South Africa and Australia by five-fold.” Even with some margin trimming, Sherry Lehmann is ahead of last year’s sales in volume and total dollars. (Full story…)
This article is part of a quarterly series written by me for New Zealand Winegrowers. For Q1 NZ WinE-News http://www.smartmailpro.co.nz/s.aspx?xr58=EA60E298F11845ECBD612804E9907632
If New Zealand was located in the Northern Hemisphere, the long, skinny island chain would stretch from North Africa to Paris and in North America, from Portland, Oregon to Fresno, California. The wine regions would lie in the general areas of the Loire Valley, Burgundy and Bordeaux in France and in America, they would lie in the respective Willamette, Napa and Sonoma regions. Sauvignon Blanc naturally flourishes in the cool, maritime climate of New Zealand, specifically Marlborough, Nelson and Martinborough and in the warmer region of Hawkes Bay. Today, there are over 14,000 hectares throughout New Zealand planted to Sauvignon Blanc.
Stylistically the varietal spans the flavor spectrums from fresh vibrant gooseberry, citrus and capsicum to stone fruit, melon and wild herbs. But beyond obvious flavor profiles, well made Sauvignon Blanc is also about texture, length and a certain edginess that is enchanting and desirable in its youth. And like iconic rock bands that transcend generations of music lovers or athletes that perform way beyond their years, superb Sauvignon Blanc can become increasingly more interesting and complex with maturity. The best of the best are bone dry, with long palate length and texture while mineral, toast and lanolin flavors complement the fruit. They also have regional distinction.
Regional distinction, site selection and pedigree are the key factors setting great wines apart from the rest of the pack. With 95% of all New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc originating from Marlborough, terroir, viticulture practices and winemaking could never be more important. And even in today’s challenging economic environment, there are more winemakers than not, who are undeterred in their commitment to producing Sauvignon Blanc that is exciting, vibrant and serious.
 One such winemaker is Adrian Baker of Craggy Range, who oversees the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir program. Under the direction of Steve Smith, MW, Craggy Range has assembled a team of talented winemakers who have specific winemaking oversight. The dynamics of the team allow for collective brainstorming and problem solving, while the specific roles allow the winemakers to dedicate the attention and focus required to make world class wines. “The focused approach works” says Baker, “and each year we challenge ourselves to improve. As a team we nudge, heckle and encourage each other to be braver each year. ”
Although based in Hawkes Bay, Craggy Range produces most of their Sauvignon Blanc from the Te Muna Road Vineyard in Martinborough. They also make Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough and Hawkes Bay. Regional diversification and vineyard locations are key factors to the program’s success. “We are incredibly respectful of the great pioneering Sauvignon Blanc producers of Marlborough and the good wines that continue to be made in vibrant styles; they are genuinely compelling and exciting” says Baker. (Full story…)
I think most of you know that I am a bubble hound. And with full disclosure I have worked for some of the most respected Champagne and sparkling wine houses in the world. It’s a hard habit to shake. With that said I have never worked for Gloria Ferrer directly and continually rate their wine, as they are definitely on their game.
Over the weekend, I arrived back to the States and made a point to drop in and visit my good friend Paul Birman, the manager of Plumpjack Wines in SFO, www.plumpjackwines.com . When perusing his current wine selections, I asked Paul about the Gloria Ferrrer Blanc de Blancs on the PJ shelf for US $13.99. Was it any good? I favourably reviewed the Blanc de Noirs last year but couldn’t help be a bit questionable whether a BdB could hold the same quality level at that price point. He told me he liked it better than the Blanc de Noirs. So I plunked down the credit card and decided to give it a go.
Not their Royal Cuvée, but the Blanc de Blancs is a wine that certainly has pointed focus, structure and a streak of elegance that I would certainly buy again…especially at $14. Aged for a full three years on lees, plus an additional two years in bottle, the wine has developed pretty profiles of pear, citrus and a touch of toasty brioche (think fresh baked bread) that is one of the best expressions of California Chardonnay out there - still or sparkling!
The wine retails for much higher on the winery website at US $24, so it seems you will come out ahead buying it direct from a California retailer and paying the shipping, although the wine is still a bargain at the suggested retail price. I am definitely packing a case home. www.gloriaferrer.com
I am a partner in a wine company. Our daily mantra is to produce wines that the consumer wants; not to produce wines we want them to want. For me being market driven is a simple concept; find out what the consumer wants and give it to them. Unfortunately the reality is often quite the opposite, as many companies produce a wine (sometimes heaps of it) and then hope to God somebody will buy it.
Ironically, after a business meeting discussing the market driven wine model, I went for coffee with my partner and ordered a “naked” cappuccino. Naked = No Chocolate, No Cinnamon. Just pure frothy white milk and dark, rich espresso. But the Italian waiter just couldn’t do it. Within a few minutes, he delivered a cappuccino with cinnamon and chocolate along with a 15 minute diatribe as to why I should love it. I certainly appreciated his passion and I didn’t send the coffee back, but honestly I really didn’t enjoy it. It wasn’t what I wanted.
Oddly, I found myself being a bit put off by the whole thing. In retrospect, the root of the issue was not about struggling through another coffee laden with spice. The issue was really about being subjected to another scenario of a producer (mi Señor Barista) producing a product that I didn’t want. Even with explicit instructions and the ability of the barista to make it.
The experience got me thinking about the wine buying process and the similar frustrations consumers have when shopping for wine. I deducted that maybe to better understand what the consumer Does Want when they buy wine, it is important to understand what they Don’t Want.
To begin the exercise, I decided to compile a list of what my own wine buying descriptors don’t mean to me.
Interesting doesn’t mean weird or what’s on quota
Food Friendly doesn’t mean enamel stripping acidity
Straightforward doesn’t mean connect the dots simple
Refreshing doesn’t mean sweet, carbonated & available in a can
Convenient doesn’t mean free parking
Bargain doesn’t mean oxidized and unsalable
Wine in a Box doesn’t mean sludge
Screw Cap doesn’t mean cheap
Customer Service doesn’t mean extended business hours
I expect my list to continue to evolve and grow. Feel free to add to it or create your own list and share - I would love to hear your thoughts!
But most importantly, may I encourage you to ask for what you really want and then get it! I promise there are producers and retailers out there who listen.
When New Zealander Drew Harré decided to open Fish in the Latin Quarter of Paris, one of the first things on the agenda was to hire a mason to change the outside mosaic sign from “Poissonnerie” to “Boissonnerie”; as it would be a place where people would come to “drink like a fish” not to eat the fish.
Although Harré initially got grief from the locals who thought he was simply another Englishman that couldn’t spell, people now angle for a seat at the bar as soon as the doors open. It is as popular with the Parisians as it is with the ex-pat crowd. It is also one of the few places in the city that is open 7 days a week.
For those familiar with the Cosi chain in the United States, you can visit the very first Cosi directly across the street, as Harré was the man behind the concept. Between the two places, this block in the Latin Quarter is a mecca for colorful conversation, good food and endless glasses of wine. It’s definitely noisy and bustling, so don’t plan to have a quiet romantic date here. Fish is all about having a good time. And with reasonable prices, it’s easy to see how Fish is living up to its name.
69, Rue de Seine (Rue Jacob)
6e Arrondissement
+33 01 43 54 3469
I am not one to subscribe to gimmick marketing as it is rarely sustaining. So it is, that I finally address the whole marketing mantra of “Unoaked ” Chardonnay.
I give consumers a high-five for finally calling wine producers out on over-blown Chardonnays and demanding better quality, food friendly wines. Interestingly instead of looking to improve winemaking and viticulture practices, many producers have responded by just getting rid of the barrel.
So now marketers shout the virtues of “Unoaked ” Chardonnay from the hilltops (or from 5th Avenue marketing cubicles) trying to convince consumers that no oak is the new and improved version of Chardonnay. Personally I find “Unoaked Chardonnay” a bit like competing in a beauty pageant and forgetting to put on your lipstick!
So in oak’s defense, I went to France. I spent two days with Jean Marcel Jaegle, the third generation director of Dargaud & Jaegle; one of the most respected and highly sought after barrel coopers in France to discuss the craft of the barrel and its use in wine.
(Full story…)
 I have flown around the world twice in the past eight weeks. Having tramped thru multiple continents, cities and vineyards, (fueled by copious amounts of caffeine) I am finally getting my head cleared of the perpetual jet lag and sorting thru the endless notes of my recent liquid adventures.
So, I write this from a view of the snow capped mountains of Central Otago, New Zealand where I have been in the cellars tasting the new 2009 Rieslings and discussing the varietal’s place and future in the global market (meaning: will anyone ever really buy it???).
Taking a break for a sandwich, I am poured a glass of the 2007 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen, Riesling Spaetlese from the Mosel. After a mental re-confirmation of my physical locale (yes, it’s winter in August), I am reminded of the nod great winemakers make to each other every day, on every corner of the globe. They tirelessly sip, swirl, spit and analyze each others wines in efforts to always push winemaking to greater heights in their own respective regions.
I was a winemaking apprentice in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer appellation nearly twenty years ago and regardless of origin, I can always appreciate well-made Riesling. Dr. Loosen (Loh-zen) is definitely one to request for a house call.
Dr. Loosen 2007
Erdener Treppchen, Riesling Spaetlese
Mosel
Yummy flavors of honey, spice, pears and ripe stone fruit entertwine with aromas of white flowers and a hint of petrol. Acid and sweetness is well-balanced and the low alcohol (7.5%) makes this a perfect wine for lunch or afternoon tea. Pair with prosciutto and melon as I did today or simply enjoy with anything sweet, salty or spicy!
www.drloosen.com
Once known as the “whore of the orient” Shanghai continues to be a city of fascination. Bustling with constant activity (and construction), the city is positioning itself to become China’s chief banking center and will host the much anticipated 2010 World Expo.
Like everything in the city, the wine scene is developing exponentially. Although the overall wine selections are still somewhat limited and the quality of service can be quite baffling at times, there are still some terrific places to raise a glass.
 Park Hyatt – World Financial Tower
Located on the 92nd floor of the Shanghai World Financial Tower, the Park Hyatt boasts the highest bar and nightclub in the world and is a definite must for the sheer grandiosity and experience. Oddly there is not much of a view but the bar does offer one of the most comprehensive and interesting wine lists in the city with top notch wine service to match. With its location and live music every evening you do pay for the atmosphere, but it’s worth the spend.
www.parkhyattshanghai.com
Cloud 9, Grand Hyatt – Jin Mao Tower
You might say there is some sibling rivalry as the Grand Hyatt’s Cloud 9 in Jin Mao Tower once held the coveted title of the highest bar in the world until the Park Hyatt opened across the street. Located on the 87th floor, you need to take three elevators arrive, but the view is worth the effort. Feeling on the top of the world, it’s the perfect place to drink champagne while taking in the full 360 degree city view. www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com
 Enoteca
With two locations, Enoteca is filled with Chinese, expats and tourists every night of the week! During warm months, score an outside table at the Xintiandi (French Concession) location and enjoy the evening jazz with friends. Even though the wine list is missing some key wine regions, the categories are kept interesting enough with descriptive such as “sensualist”, “playful and evocative” and “hedonist”. There are usually wines available that are not on the list – be sure to ask, as we found a lovely Loire Muscadet perfect for the steamy, summer evening. www.enoteca.com.cn
 Brown Sugar
I couldn’t resist checking out Brown Sugar, on the name alone. Tucked into the tony Xintiandi shopping area (French Concession), listen to jazz five nights a week or salsa on Fridays. The dark chocolate interior sets off the wonderfully large, white glass chandelier, creating an uber-sexy place to drink. The wine list is a bit corporate and predictable but there are still some nice finds. www.brownsugarjazzclub.com
People 7
With dark, moody lighting, concrete and glass walls, triple height ceilings and white leather furniture, I found People 7 a better place to drink than to dine. The 20 meter bar seemed to stretch for miles as did the crowd of stunningly beautiful people. The wine list has a decent selection from which to choose but with a substantial list of fresh melon and spirit concoctions, it was clear that cocktails reign king. 805 Julu Road, by Fumin Road Tel: +86 (21) 5404 0707
|
contact all things liquid
|
